The mere thought of conducting a dining review at Castle Hill's longest-standing Indian restaurant Castle Taj left this self-confessed curry devotee salivating.

It therefore follows that the expectations were high.

I am pleased to say that Castle Taj did not disappoint. Instead, the husband-and-wife team of Sushil and Veena Kumar, who were born in Delhi, demonstrated how they had built a reputation in The Hills as ``curry supremos.''

It was in 2002 that they opened the restaurant, which is in Terminus Street.

My dining partner (photographer Natalie Roberts) and I began our meal with the traditional mixed entree ($10.90) of samosa, seekh kebab, pakora and chicken tikka and delicious tandoori prawns ($13.90). We were also treated to mushrooms ($9.90) stuffed with cottage cheese and potato, marinated in chickpea flour and wok-fried.

The business end of the review came with the arrival of our mains beef masala with vegetables and tomatoes ($14.50), and mango chicken ($14.90).

The curries passed the tenderness test with flying colours. The meat melted in our mouths. The sweetness of the mango worked beautifully with spiciness of the masala, a fusion of cardomon, coriander, nutmeg and fennel seeds.

Our curries were accompanied by garlic naan, steamed rice, delicious chutney and fresh yoghurt.

All curries can be cooked to your liking, whether it be mild, medium and hot or ``Indian hot''.

We finished the meal with a cop of sweet and spicy Indian tea.

Castle Taj is at 12/3-9 Terminus Street. Open for lunch Friday to Sunday noon-3pm and dinner, seven days from 5.30pm. Call 98945830.